Chikankari ( Chikan hand embroidery) is a
delicate and artfully done hand embroidery on a variety of textile fabric
like muslin, silk, chiffon, organza, net etc. Though it originated as a
court craft, today it is a practiced tradition and an important commercial
activity. White thread is embroidered on cool, pastel shades of light muslin
and cotton garments.Now a days chikan embroidery is also done with coloured
and silk threads in different colours to meet the recent fashion trends and
keep chikankari trendy with fashion. Lucknow is the heart of the Chikankari
industry today (Lucknawi chikan).
DesignA design is
conceptualized the designers for the complete piece viz a saree, a top . a
sherwani etc. At the time of deciding the design various motifs and their
placements are finalized, to get that complete effect on the final apparel.
EngravingThese
design patterns is then engraved on a wooden block or at times sketching it
manually. There are thousands of pre made blocks / motifs already available
and the new ones are designed from time to time to meet the new fashion
demands.
Block PrintingOnce the block is ready then
the printing is done on the fabric. Printing is carried out by the use of
wooden blocks dipped in dyes like neel and safeda to make a pattern.
EmbroideryThe
printed fabric then reaches the craftsmen who get to work with the cloth
stretched by a wooden frame or Karchop. They do the enriching embroidery
using a variety of stitches. These stitches are done on the same pattern
which are engraved on the fabric by block printing.
Washing &
finishingAfter the embroidery, the fabric reaches the laundry and
is thoroughly washed and given the finishing touches. This includes
bleaching, acid treatment, stiffening or starching and ironing.
Bead
and Sequin workIn recent times a lot of bead and sequin work has
also been added as an additional process in making the final apparel The art
of chikankari, today is flourishing and enriches both the domestic and
export market. It is used in casual as well as elite formal couture dressing