PROCESS
Chikankari is a delicate and artfully
done hand embroidery on a variety of textile fabric like muslin, silk,
chiffon, organza, net etc. Though it originated as a court craft, today it
is a practiced tradition and an important commercial activity. White thread
is embroidered on cool, pastel shades of light muslin and cotton garments.
Lucknow is the heart of the Chikankari industry today (Lucknawi chikan).
DESIGN
The design is decided upon on the
chosen fabric. The stitches are decided according to the design to be used
in the embroidery.
ENGRAVING
The pattern is then engraved on a
wooden block or at times sketching it manually.
BLOCK PRINTING
Once the block is ready then the
printing is done on the fabric. Printing is carried out by the use of wooden
blocks dipped in dyes like neel and safeda to make a pattern.
EMBROIDERY
The printed fabric then reaches the
craftsmen who get to work with the cloth stretched by a wooden frame or
Karchop. They do the enriching embroidery using a variety of stitches.
WASHING & FINISHING
After the embroidery, the fabric
reaches the laundry and is thoroughly washed and given the finishing
touches. This includes bleaching, acid treatment, stiffening or starching
and ironing.
The art of chikankari, today is flourishing and enriches both the domestic
and export market.